This design is based on the angled titan extruder bracket designed by napfkuchen on thingiverse (link here). I remade it in Fusion360 as a learning exercise for myself, and have included the file so others can make their own changes easily.
There are a few changes from the original design as follows:
- Significantly more rigid design
- Some dimensions changed to accommodate the extruder design i bought.
- Designed to be compatible with the petsfang bullseye cooler (link) when using the original ender3 fans and original hotend. I'm unsure about compatibility with the original fan shroud, or with the microswiss hotend.
- Rear hole (between the two wheel axles) was enlarged to cover the threaded insert that exists on the ender3. This was too small on the original design.
The rigidity of this design is greatly improved. The original design required a linear advance (marlin) / pressure advance (klipper) of 0.8 because the extruder was able to flex up and down. Adding the new support (the one that holds the locknut) underneath the motor brought the linear advance down to 0.3, and flexing is no longer visible in the bracket.
This design reuses the original extruder stepper motor, however a lighter motor could be substituted.
The titan extruder I bought was a clone from china, and may have different dimensions from the original. But it shouldn't be too hard to modify the dimensions to suit.
As far as printer quality goes, this has made a massive positive difference for very little cost (I think I paid ~$8 AUD for the extruder, and reused everything else).
- A way to lengthen the extruder motor's 4 wires. I cut and soldered mine
- The titan extruder
- Something to cut the existing PTFE tube - I used a sharp knife with care to cut squarely.
- Pull off the support structures from printjob. Double-check that the holes and surfaces are clear of all support material.
- Remove hotend from gantry
- Remove original extruder and stepper from gantry
- Remove top wheels, spacers, and screws from gantry
- Assemble existing stepper motor, and titan extruder on to the printed bracket. You will not require the push-fitting on the extruder's output.
- Insert 2x aluminum spacers (from next to the wheels) into the printed bracket. from the back side. Insert them such that ~2mm of the spacer remains protruding from the part. These will be a tight fit, and may require pliers. The holes can be enlarged if required from the F360 model. NOTE: removal of the spacers from the printed bracket is difficult, and may require destruction of the part.
- Slide the extruder assembly down onto the gantry so that the holes line up. This should be tight-ish.
- Insert the locknut into the printed part, then attach the wheel+screw. Tighten. When you tighten this, the spacer should move in slightly, but remain protruding ~1mm from the part, so that the wheel doesn't rub. Now attach the other wheel, noting that the bolt will face the opposite direction (i.e. bolt > gantry > spacer+printed part > wheel > locknut).
- Cut the PTFE tube to an appropriate length. This will require a few attempts of the next step, trimming the tube, and then retrying.
- Reattach the hotend to the gantry. Start with the PTFE tube fully inserted into the hotend, then push the free-end into the extruder. Lift the hotend upwards to line up the hotend mounting holes.
- Attach the Bullseye base part (BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27.stl) to the gantry, and then the hotend fan
- Attach the Bullseye duct (BULLSEYE_DUCT_9.27...stl)
- Attach the blower to the duct
- Lengthen the wires to the extruder. I did this by cutting the 4 wires and soldering additional length, though other methods exist.
- Make sure to recalibrate the extruder's steps/mm, and to relevel your printbed.