Here it is! The Typical Pickup Body, (MyRCCar TPB) from now on...
It is a multipart 1/10 RC car body, in which parts has been separated so you can print them with different materials and colors.
Some parts are screwed to each other, while others must be glued.
Here you have a few related videos, take a look!
There are 3 main parts which compose the most part of the body. They are the Front, the Cab and the Bed part. There are 2 different beds you can choose. With the sorter one you will have a 290mm wheelbase body, while with the longer one you will have 310mm wheelbase. The design of these three main parts allow to print them with minimal or no supports.
This thing have actually more than 60 makes in Thingiverse but, why?¿? I only shared the 3 main parts and a few more, and for getting the rest of the parts you needed to upload your make of the 3 main parts.
After letting those people access the rest of the parts, just a few updated their make with new photos including those new parts.
Now I want to confirm the counter-part of the "experiment"... I am sharing it all here so people won't need to upload a make of it or contact me to have the full model. I think MyMiniFactory people could be little different from Thingiverse one. Let's see if that's true and you upload your make and photos of this thing ;) I hope so...
I have recently created a smoothed version of the main parts. They are not real high-poly and I haven't tested them yet, but if I have to print this body again I will use them. If you are interested in them let me know through a Private Message and maybe a Tip ;)
Printing Tips for Main Parts
This project can be printed in a 200x200x200mm build volume. The 310mm bed part is 207mm long, so you will need taller build volume in your 3d printer. Simple and cheap FDM printers should be able to print this.
Take a look to the Cab part finishing printing in the next video.
The orientation of the parts suggested in the file for the main parts is the one you need if you want to minimize the use of supports and take advantage of the design. Is the way you can expect similar results to my build.
This model involves many grams of material but also many hours of slicing, printing and overwatching your printer.
I suggest you to print the main parts in 0.2mm layers if you don't want it to take forever :S and use something between 0.4 and 0.5 mm for your perimeter thickness. Two perimeters walls, 5 top bottom layers, 15% infill and for the speeds something like 70mm/s /50%outer /80%infill /80%supports.
As you can see the main parts are provided with or without pre-made supports. I can't warranty the correct work of the pre-made supports, but if you print them with 1 perimeter, 3 bottom and 3 top layers, 0% infill you won't waste much material and they will probably work as did for me.
You must separate the meshes in your slicer once imported specially for the BED part, as it has a special extra part (I could not make the boolean correctly). The support parts in FRONT and CAB, the same than the rear windows ones can be correctly printed without separating them, but the bed one is mandatory.
Remember you can use something like "Horizontal expansion" or "Horizontal Size Compensation" to make the walls of the BED part thicker if you need to. I use a negative -0.02mm horizontal expansion to compensate the size of holes and help with tolerances normally.
Times and Weights
With the previous parameters, I took near 30 hours to me to print the 3 main parts. They will weight about 100g for the front and the bed ones and 170g for the cab part.
As you can see in the photos, I have used a quite simple color palete... The main body color, ugly red in my build, grey or silver and black for the rest of the parts. I also use transparent PLA fo light covers and very important, TPU plastic for RearViews, Bumper or anti-roll bars and side-platforms.
I print this parts normally slower than the big ones. Using also 0.1mm layer height for some of them like light covers or radiator.
The tricky radiator
You need to be able in your slicer of "separate meshes" and using different process to print different meshes. Simplif3D does this correctly.
So the idea is you separate the meshes in the radiator in your slicer. From there, you create 2 different process to print the whole part. The first one without Top/Bottom layers and very thin perimeter. The idea is the infill you select will be what you see in the back of the radiator.
For the second mesh in the file, the top one, use a more normal printing process, if you can with 0.1mm layer height. This parts should be made over the infill the other process is doing simultaneously. I hope you get it :)
You are a lucky guy, because this time I'm also including the "Extras" I published in a separate publication in the past. Previously, you had to upload and update your make of all the previous parts of the pickup. As you know, this is the counter-experiment... let's see what happens ;)
With these extra parts you should be able to build the Side-Platforms, the front Bumper Bars, the Anti-Roll bars and a simple trunk. Their filenames are:
With all these parts, you will be able to "Clone" my build perfectly :)
You can also find a few extra parts created by other makers / designers, take a look:
- Ford Grille for MyRCCar_TPB or Light Bar for MyRCCar_TPB (or similar) by Rocco_T
- Roll/Light bar for the MYRCCAR TPB by brausefrosch
Body Holders for MTC Chassis
Initially I was using the holding system I designed for FJ Cruiser for MTC chassis, adapted for Typical Pickup, but I realized that I can simply hold the Body using 4 TPU parts. Two of them in the chassis and other two in the body.
These parts provide a high position of the body over the chassis. This is what you need to use big wheels if you want to have enough clearance when suspension is working but same time you will have a higher gravity center so you will increase rolling possibilities. If you are interested in the lower position holders please write me a PM.
You will need M3x16-20mm Screws to join the TPU parts to the chassis or the body, and two long M4x30-40 screws and two M4x30-40 grub screws.
I finally also added the needed link parts for the Standard height position. Remember you have to choose also the right ones for your MTC version, the Rigid Axles one or the Independent Suspension one.
If you plan to build a MTC chassis for your Typical Pickup and use big wheels, I suggest you to use the longest CVDs (HSP 188015) to avoid clearance problems. If you can't you will probably need to "re-sculpt" a little your body in those parts hitting your wheels. I discovered that I can use a pirograph with a dimmer to "re-sculpt" my PLA prints... horrible smells, do it outdoors :S Maybe you preffer to make some cuts with your rotary tool...
Other Body Holders
The main idea under MyRCCar is/was to create a comunity of makers / designers related to RC Cars, but it just partially worked. A good example of it working is what the Thingiverse user BotYoyo did for MyRCCar... He started asking about some old files, took a look to the new projects I started and he started building them. Incredible maker, take a look to his pickup. But that's not all... he was reporting to the comunity all the problems or improvements he found and he created alternative/improved parts to solve some problems, like for example:
- BotYoyo's Light weight roll cage for MyRCCar MTC
- BotYoyo's Clip-On links for pickup body with Light Weight roll cage (MyRCCar MTC)
As you can see, they conform an alternative Body Holder System which doesn't use TPU plastic.
Some more makers / designers contributed with holding systems, like for example francisdb who remixed BotYoyo's roll cage to create francisdb's MyRCCar MTC body posts, simpler but probably quite efective ;)
Help MyRCCar, dlb5 and related designers
I have spent thousands of hours into these MyRCCar proyects last years. If you search a little deeper into my designs, you will see I have created what some people call "an eco-system" of 3d printed 1/10 RC cars, both chassis and bodies to cover most of the needs of the hobby. From crawling to drifting, bashing or racing but the best part is I have printed those parts, tested and improved them (what my time and pocket could allow) and shared them with you for free.
You can Help MyRCCar basically "spreading the word", which could mean liking, collecting, sharing, making, giving attribution, uploading your photos, testing, improving, modifying or creating new parts, but most important enjoying with it and letting us know about it ;) This way, the MyRCCar comunity will be bigger and have more visibility, which could lead into more possibilities to print into this 3D printed RC car world.
You can Help me helping MyRCCar of course, as I feel it until now like a child of mine ;) Showing my projects and giving attribution is in the end the best you can do for me to help me find a good job. But If you think it would be nice I would go on dedicating my time to this "eco-system", then you can Tip me, specially if you like and value my work. I think something very similar would apply for the related designers... Remember to give them attribution and let them know if you like their things the way you consider.
I would like to organize something like a group forum here in MyMiniFactory but I haven't found the way. By now... you can use the MyRCCar Group in thingiverse if you want to contribute to the comunity somehow :)
Thank you for giving a try to MyRCCar!!!