MyRCBike NSR500, First 1/5 3D Printed Hobby Level RC Bike
MyRCBike NSR500, First 1/5 3D Printed Hobby Level RC Bike
3D
Published 2020-09-11T16:00:06+00:00
FEATURES
- - Chassis, body and pilot are real 1:5 scale
- - Body (fairing) and Pilot designed to be printed in TPU, increasing durability
- - Everything turns freely and correctly thanks to its 11 bearings for the chassis and 4 more for the "Flying wheels"
- - Fully Functional Front and Rear Suspension System.
- - Standard steering system for 1:5 scale, allows the bike to start and finish turns as expected
- - Simple auto-correction/steering-stabilizer/Servo-Saver system ;)
- - Use standard XL belt for transmission to wheel system
- - Belt tensioner allows the perfect fit
- - Big space for 2S Battery. Max. 140x50x16mm aprox. 4000mAh
- - Standard wheel hubs for more wheel compatibility
- - No stinging, cutting or dangerous elements stand out of the motorbike. All exterior parts but forks and wheels are soft material
Take a look to the MyRCBike NSR500 V1 in its first ride... the "Flying wheels" were quite long, the shell of the bike and the rider were printed in TPU, and I was using a very good Brushless sensored Motor+ESC
If you preffer to see things under your own point of view, use the next 3D scan ;)
Old price: 55.55
ARE YOU READY?¿?
If driving four wheels can be complicated, more when it comes to 3d printed vehicles, maybe driving 3d printed 2 wheel bike can seem to be impossible. If you also consider the price of the parts to buy, apparently picky ones, and the supposed fragility of a 2 wheel vehicle, probably you will let this idea to pass away... and I don't blame you...)
But there I am, an "exclusivity" non-conformist, who discovered something as simple as the electronics involved in 1/5 RC bikes are the same as the ones from 1/10 RC cars... which I know, have available from previous MyRCCar projects and are easy to buy.
I could enjoy this hobby when I was a child thanks to my "lucky uncle" and the Kyosho NSR500 FA Series he gave me, plus all the time he dedicated to me, but I never really dominated the hobby... Some time ago I started thinking about upgrading this 90's RC bike with new Li-Po and Brushless but soon I realized that the 1/7-1/8 scale was not convenient for me to use my typical M3 screws and known RC electronics.
Let me also mention someone, one of my actual few "influencers" who "influence" me over and over with his good work... We are talking about Brett Turnage, the creator of the most amazing 3d printable RC projects available in the net; at least they are for me. But not only that... The level of his presentations is actually my goal to achieve and motivates me in many ways.
Finally, you must know that Rockser3D has helped me a lot with "rigging, skinning, and posing" the racer buddy, skills that are a little too much for my right now. The Pilot is not part of the product, but you can get it after uploading some photos of your MyRCBike build and letting us know a little about your first experiences with it. The Pilot has no sex or face. It looks like my cousin Rockser3D wanted to emulate some kind of robot in the pelvic zone, but also a ghostly hole in the inside of the helmet that could allow us to print and personalize your own face or the one of your enemy... If he/she is so ugly, just put down the helmet's windshield ;) And better not talking about holding system for the pilot... it could be even inappropriate for some ages… :S
SHOPPING LIST
How expensive is it?
In great numbers you can spend between 60 and 200 in 1/10 electronics, 50 in wheels and belt, 20 more for bearings, screws and other hardware and around 20 more in PLA and TPU filament. Already there?¿?
Electronics:
Once you know electronics (1/10 scale) are not specially complicated or expensive (you can get them locally or in aliexpress, etc.) there are some other parts pending as the front Fork. It looks (and probably it is) something very precise, necessary for the correct work of the bike. We can see the prices for these front forks from 50 to 150€... and without wheel!!!
Front Fork:
Front Fork is then one of the elements I made 3d printable. Anyway, I consider necessary using metallic shafts for each of the two front "shocking tubes", the same as a pair of 10x32mm more common springs which really makes the front shocking action. I created some "TPU seals" for the front fork shocks so you can try, and probably achieve to put some silicone/oil in those tubes.
Actually, the front shock shafts are two 5x85mm piano wire rods.
Bearings:
All moving parts of the bike are working with bearings. I wanted to use the most standard size for all of them, 5x10x4mm, being these bearings so cheap and easy to find. You will need 15 of these bearings for the bike, including the 4 you need for the "flying wheels".
Belt:
In this bike, the transmission from the motor to the rear wheel is made in two "reduction" steps. We can find the first one between the motor pinion and the geared crown in the right side of the motorbike. Actually this gears are Mod1, the pinion can have between 14T and 20T and the crown can have a max of 46T in Mod1 (48mm max diameter). This model includes a 14T pinion and a 46T crown which can do a great combination for a start point.
The second reduction is between the main axle (previous crown transmits its turn to this axle) and the rear wheel with a belt system. This, the belt, is other of the elements which we'll have to buy if we want a reliable bike, and being able to accelerate or break strongly. The gears for this belt system has been designed with XL standard and are then compatible with sourced XL belts, but also with TPU 3d printed ones. I discovered these belts are not so expensive and relatively easy to find, but mostly in 10mm wide.
This bike needs a 5mm wide belt and for that I designed and added to the files a "belt divider" to get out two 5mm belts from one 10mm belt. Hurraaah!!! Included gears for this belt system are 13T for the main axle and 30T for the wheel. To use them you will need a 142XL belt, with 71 teeth.
Maybe you don't believe it, but we will need just a few more special elements to build up this bike. You will need more 5mm "piano wire" to "metal-smithing" your main axle if you want a reliable solid transmission (You can initially print the main axle, then copy it "metal-smithing" your 5mm piano wire part and replace it). Also, this main axle is the one on which it tilts the rear fork. If you get 5mm piano wire, you can also cut from there the front and rear wheel axles, but be sure that it passes inside the bearings, because mine did not and I had to "rectify" the diameter sanding it until it fitted...
Rear Shock:
Finally two more elements we need to buy... one cheap and other expensive... You will need one 1/10 scale On-road RC car shock with 58 or 60mm from hole to hole for the rear shock of the bike. You can find them for around 2 bucks in aliexpress and maybe a little more expensive in your local store. But now... the expensive element... not talking about the electronics...
Wheels:
I think is especially important the material composition of the tires is as similar as posible to real ones, or better said, with the most "grip" possible. So, instead of trying to imitate the shape of the tires and print them in TPU to see what happens, I decided to start directly with real good sourced wheels to have a good start point.
I'm using GRX12-M3 and GRX22-M3 wheels from GRPtyres for front and rear wheels respectively. I chose these wheels and its format because is the only one I can find actually available from anywhere in the world and they seemed to respect some kind of standards for 1/5 wheels, or at least they had enough information of the product so I could see if they could do the work before buying.
Screws and more:
Finally to complete the shopping list we need a bunch of M3 screws, some M5 ones, a few M4 grub screws... a velcro strap, some good cyano glue and a pen spring (3mm inner diameter and around 20mm length) we will use for our "servo-saver/etc" system... And that's all!!! There is no more trick :)
3D PRINTED PARTS LIST
As in some of my previous projects, the naming I'm using for my files is important and includes the group it belongs to. Anyway, this time I'm sharing the files in a big zip, with folders for the groups so you will find everything easier.
Trick or Treat:
The rider parts and the lift stand parts are not included in this publication. But... I will send or give you access to them when you upload some good pictures of your bike printed. As you can see in my first video, the bike can work without the driver, but it's an important part to protect the rest of the bike in some kind of collisions. So remember, after printing your bike, upload some photos and let me know through a private message.
Next you can see the parts grouped and the number of them you need to print
Chassis Parts
1 Front Main (needs supports)
1 Front Bar
1 Front Fork Holder (needs supports)
1 Front Body Holder Left(TPU)(needs supports)
1 Front Body Holder Right (TPU)(needs supports)
1 Rear Fork Main (needs supports)
1 Rear Wheel HUB (needs supports)
2 Rear Side Plate
1 Rear Base
1 Rear Shock Holders
1 Main Axle (3DP or 5x75mm metal)
1 Main Axle Spacers
1 Rear Axle (3DP or 5x63mm metal)
2 Servo Spacer (TPU)
Motor Block Parts
1 Motor Base Plate
1 Motor Front Plate
1 Motor Top Plate
1 Motor Side Plate
1 Motor Side Plate Extra Front
1 Motor Side Plate Extra Rear
1 Battery Front Box 50x16 or 43x18 optional
1 Batery Guide / Rear Body Holder
Transmission Parts
1 14T Mod1 Pinion (options)
1 46T Mod1 Crown
1 13T XL Pinion
1 XL Pinion Extra Lip
1 30T XL Crown
1 142XL 71T 5mm belt (Can use customizer)
1 10mm Belt Divider Top
1 10mm Belt Divider Base
1 Belt Tensioner Bearing Holder
Front Fork and Steering Parts
1 Steering Platform TOP
1 Steering Platform BOTTOM
1 Front Wheel Holder Left (needs supports)
1 Front Wheel Holder Right (needs supports)
1 Front Wheel HUB (needs supports)
2 Shock Body Main
2 Shock Bottom Cup
2 Shock Top Seal (TPU)
2 Shock Bottom Seal (TPU)
2 Shock Piston Head
2 Shock Shaft (5x85mm metal)
1 Front Axle (3DP or 5x50mm metal)
1 Steering ArmLong_STD
1 Steering Servo Arm
1 Steering Servo Arm Pivot
Body Parts
1 Main Front (TPU)
1 Main Front with WindShield (TPU)
1 Main Fuel Tank (TPU)
1 Main Rear (TPU)
1 Windshield (Transparent)
1 MudGuard Front
1 MudGuard Rear
1 Rider Seat
1 Rider ButtPlug
Flying Wheels
2 Flying Wheels Main Body (TPU)
2 Flying Wheels Half Sphere Wheel(TPU)
2 Flying Wheels Spacer
IMPORTANT
As there are very little precedents in this kind of builds, I created a Discord Server to be able to attend your needs while building and understanding this project. After buying this design, please contact me by private message so I can invite you to my discord server :) I will also give you the "final key" to access the files.
PRINTER AND MATERIALS
In terms of geometry, the parts that compose the bike can be printed in FDM printers with a minimum of 200x200x200mm printing volume.
Of course, most of the parts of the chassis must be printed in a rigid material, like PLA, ABS or PetG. If you think your motor is going to get hot, maybe you must choose a rigid mat which supports higher temps than PLA.
But the key of this design is really the rest of the parts, the fairing, which practically wrap completely the chassis, protecting it from external collisions, hits or bounces. You could think about printing these parts in PetG (and I did), as it better deforms in some cases practically recovering initial position, but those parts has been really designed to be printed in TPU to help the bike survive various kinds of hits. Its less flexibility when thick and its great flexibility when thin allows those elements of the body to bend in collisions or simply when manipulating to put on or out some parts. They create a kind of "airbag" around the bike which absorbs with deformation most of the energy of collisions.
In my first driving test, I did not even know if the bike would steer... I could finally experiment with some driving errors making the bike to hit the ground with many of the body parts. Thanks to TPU body, even without the pilot, none of the parts of the bike were damaged, and I could even continue playing after some collisions, but other times I had to fix something simple like un-blocking part of the body with the direction.
If some of the TPU parts are too big for your printer you can probably slice them in 2 parts. If you print the sliced surface over the bed, you will probably be able to glue those 2 parts together quite easy.
Some of the parts of the body already have the right thickness, which would be 1.6mm, four perimeters in total of 0.4mm each. For those parts with a smaller thickness when in correct printing position, I would use "Horizontal Expansion" or similar feature of your slicing software to reach that 1.6mm of total wall thickness. I tested the flexibility of the body parts with this wall thickness and they fit correctly and flex what is needed to allow mounting them over the chassis. As I said, these body parts have been designed to be printed in TPU and then you could need that flexibility.
SUPPORTS
If you take a look to the parts list, you will see a good part of them need supports. Many of these parts ressemble the real look of the NSR500 so it was important to maintain their shape. If you print them in the suggested position (the original position when importing the part in your slicer) you will need to use supports just in the begining of the print, I mean, to support the lower part, but not all the overhangs, as they can be done without supports in a good calibrated FDM printer.
My quick trick adding supports: If your slicer allows it, add automatically supports for overhangs greater than 60º. Set them to only start those supports over the bed. Change the size of the supports to the minimum to ensure they will fit in the narrower zones. Finally, remove manually those supports which suppose "too much work" (in terms of 3d printing) if hey are supporting an overhang but not a starting point.
So please, do not fill everything of supports spending a lot of extra time and money... just those strictly needed.
If you don't find an angle for your part with a plain surface to be a good start but mostly, maybe you can consider "sinking" your part a little into the bed (in the slicer) to have a good first layer.
For example, the big front bike body part... In the suggested position you will see it only contacts the bed in two points. The rest must start over supports. If you want to be sure it won't separate of the bed during the print, you can "sink" this front body part in the slicer bed until you see a good enough first layer sacrifying just a little of detail.
Yes, sacrifying a little of detail is not the best option, but you will have time to re-print this with more detail in the future if you want so... ;)
| Date published | 11/09/2020 |