Printed at 60mm/s at 250c to keep a decent pool of melted material in print nozzle. Run too cold at these speeds and you will get a clog and end up with filament coming out of the side of the hobb gear on your extruder. Good bridging speeds will give much less droop than low speeds. As it adds a bit of stretch as it goes across.

I used a 2016 CR-10 single Z, with an all-metal hot-end and a custom fan setup. Barrel fan. You need really good cooling to bridge the gap to get a nice gap to fit the pad on the pedal in the car. A little bit of droop is ok, but not too much. 3rd layer after bridging should be as good as one printed on the bed.

Print with a 10 to 15 layer zero offset perimeter to get it to stick. I am including the GCODE I used on my CR-10. See if you can match my results.

Clean up was a matter of trimming the brim off with scissors and clipping the strings between the hexagons. Then hitting it with a heat gun on the hexagons only to heat treat the working surface.