The FC mount can be printed in either flexi or solid filament but obviously flexi gives the FC added vibe damping.
The motor Dampners are also designed to be flexi but aernt essential for the build.
The FC of choice cannot use pinned connections as there's limited space under the canopy and direct wiring is just so much neater anyway
Any motor is usable upto 2205 in size (I originally planned to use 1806 but had the 2205's handy)
The Props I used are of a design that means they clear the top of the canopy, similar Tri's(such as DalDrops) or more common 2 blade props will strike the canopy unless a spacer is applied beneath the motors to lift them higher off the mounts.
The battery is the most restricted point in this design, obviously anything too big wont fit inside the removable battery bay and the bay itself is as large as the design allows without altering the design so much it no longer looks like a dji spark (which kinda defeats the whole point of the design really), I used a ZOP 850mah 70c which fits perfectly inside the bay.
The battery connector must be fixed in place once fitted (either hot glued or similar) to allow the bay to be slotted onto the frame and the battery terminals to mate without further fuss.
WARNING!:- incase the obvious didn't occur, you'll need a battery bay part for each battery!!
Hardware used :-
FC - Naze32 rev6 (direct soldered wiring, NO pins)
ESC - DYS 4in1 20A
MOTORS - Racerstar 2205 2300kv
PROPS - KingKong 5045 Tri's (with 5mm tip trimming)
RX - FRSky R6b (decased and unused pins removed)
BATTERY - ZOP Power 11.1V 850mah 70C 3S (size essential, no bigger dimensions)
FPV CAM - Eachine AIO TX03 (adapted from clover to whip antenna)
Prop adapter to allow the use of genuine spark folding props (I already finished a design for 1806 motors but havnt perfected a version for 2205's like the racerstar with 5mm shafts yet)
Lower plate revision to allow the use of larger sized batteries without the use of the battery bay (no longer fully resembles a Spark but you can atleast opt to use higher cell (4s) and/or larger Mah Lipo's for greater flight time / Duration.
LED pods for the motor mounts (similar to the genuine spark), either fixed colour or utilizing the naze32's ability to control addressable LEDS and therefore display mode/battery status.
added "battery adapter plate"
this adaption allows the use of larger sized lipos than the battery bay can accommodate, the only drawbacks being that the frame no longer appears entirely "spark like" and the original battery securing method can no longer be utilized, as an alternative a velcro lipo strap around the entire body and lipo works well (please see added pictures for example)
NB:I added a additional power supply lead to the DYS 20a 4in1 board that can be tucked away inside the main body when the spark-like battery bay lipos are in use and can then be taken out and used for larger lipo's when the adapter plate is in place (see photo's)
added "LED CAM mount"
5mm ultra bright LEDs that run off the same power feed as the AIO cam Ive used
CAM - Eachine TX03 switchable AIO cam (modified antenna from clover to whip concealed inside canopy)
LEDs - standard ultrabright 5mm resistored LEDs (suitable for use with either the 5v or 12v bec feed from the DYS board)
There is a second revision of this design now available (my own personal remix) which Ive named "the sparkie" as its still based generally on this design but allows a much larger selection of lipo sizes and has been given additional tilt to the motor arms which inturn allows for the use of more prop options and increases overall stability in the air.
If your after a Dji spark lookalike clone then this design is for you.
If your after something with more options and the ability to go 4s/5s for some serious overpowered flight characteristics then Id use the Sparkie, I personally use the latter and can testify that this much power in such a small package is a absolute laugh a minute.