Ender 3 Clone BMG (Fysetc) clone V6 extruder with original creality fans
Ender 3 Clone BMG (Fysetc) clone V6 extruder with original creality fans
Published 2020-09-22T11:05:38+00:00
https://youtu.be/WVlCcw_Ls6A- Assembling animation. Older version but still works.
->I don`t have ender 3 anymore. My idea for next iteration of this design is to change "lidpart" screws for magnets and make that part smaller for easier remixing for ABL.
This is my attempt of ender 3 direct drive with clone BMG (Fysetc) and clone V6.
I accidentally bought V6 without fan so i decided to make this with original fans.
Its second iteration of this project and changes are based on flaws that i found in the first printed version that im using about several days.
Nozzle is about 8-10mm before printer bed so printing Y axis is "shorter" about that value. This problem can be "fixed" by moving printing surface, changing home offset in firmware or just some slicer tweaks.
With standard motor you will need new X endstop housing part.
Updated with new fan duct, lid part and some minor tweaks.
"GrillPart.stl" is supposed to be a modifier\part of LidPart in your slicer. With this you can make cover with infill pattern. If you add a part to lid in PrusaSlicer then grillpart should be placed automatically in right place. In other slicers you need to move that modifier in right place manually. Then you can rotate whole to right orientation. After that set per-model settings of GrillPart to 0 or 1 perimeter without top and bottom and adjust infill.
For this thing you need additional screws.
For cooling fan:
- 2 * M3x12 + 2 * M3x19 OR 4 * M3x12
M3x19 will better hold the "lid" part from side
For "lid" front side:- M2x(+9) with nuts
OR
- M3x(+9) with nuts
Holes are 3mm because i thought 3mm would be better but my M2 screw works good and they are smaller so used them. Check head size of your M2 screws or change holes size.
For main part:
- threads of original heatsink: M3x12 with nut
optionally two screws with nuts, more info below
- thread of original hotend housing (looking frontside left one): M3x9
for second thread you can useoriginal screw
For new X endstop housing:
- M3x19
its possible to use longer screw but it requires modification in model
Isolation cotton from upper side of heatblock may be required!
Original blowing fan duct works. Fan is mounted with original ender 3 screws.
This cable chainhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060will work with this design.
I have 3d model of printerhead cart with heatsink threads that go through. I was sure that model was correct. After printing i had to drill that plate because model was not correct. I used 2mm drill to drill through plate from front side. After that i drilled with 3mm drill holes from the backside using newly done 2mm holes but with caution to not destroy existing thread. With this i can still use that threads for original hotend.
For easier support removal watch this hackaday stuff https://hackaday.com/2020/05/27/improving-3d-printed-supports-with-a-marker . Make it strong with many perimeters/walls. Fan duct -> 0.12mm layer
Design have one screw (M3) with nut that is totally optional. You can mount/unmout this screw only with printerhead removed. This screw additionally holds the "lid" part and without it this part will hold without any problems. This screw and nut are on the right side of original hotend looking from front of the printer. Make sure your holes have right diameter! Drill machine is your friend.
Date published | 22/09/2020 |