Jiminy Cricket, the Walt Disney version of the "Talking Cricket", a fictional character created by Italian writer Carlo Collodi for his 1883 children's book The Adventures of Pinocchio.

Jiminy was originally an unnamed, minor character in Collodi's novel who is killed by Pinocchio before returning as a ghost. He was transformed for the Disney adaptation into a comical and wisecracking partner who accompanies Pinocchio on his adventures

No supports are required. Two pieces contains built-in supports and braces. Optional parts without the built-in supports and braces are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports (see notes below). If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed.

The assembled model is 285mm tall.

Enjoy!

Special shoutout to maker Benoît Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback.

Another shoutout to the guys at 3DBoom for printing a beautiful copy of this model. A picture of the front view of their print is included. See their build under their full make for more details.

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**Print Instructions:**
Supports: No
Resolution: .2mm
Infill: 10%

Notes:**

Refer to the notes below for a few helpful printing and assembly instructions.

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**Building the model**

Colors

Black: (Paramount3D PLA - Black)
eye_black_right
eye_black_left
hair_right
hair_left
black_hat
..

Matte Black: (Paramount3D PLA - Matte Black)
jacket
jacket_without_supports
..

Blue: (Paramount3D PLA - Cadet Blue)
shoe_front_right
shoe_front_left
shoe_back_right
shoe_back_left
hat_top
hat_brim
hat_brim_without_supports
..

Light Brown: (Paramount3D PLA - Dark Complextion)
spats_right
spats_left
pants
..

Brown: (Paramount3D PLA - Military Brown)
ascot
..

Gold: (Hatchbox PLA - Gold)
hatband
shirt_button
jacket_buttons (contains two identical pieces)
umbrellar_tip
umbrella_strap
umbrella_handle
spats_buttons (contains two identical pieces)
..

Green: (Hatchbox PLA - True Green)
head
arm_right
..

Dark Red: (Paramount3D PLA - Iron Red)
shirt
mouth
umbrella_top
umbrella_bottom

..
pink: (Paramount3D PLA - Harajuku Pink)
tongue
..

White: (Overture PLA - White)
eye_white_left
eye_white_right
hand_left
hand_right
collar
legs (contains two identical pieces)

..
Any color: (hidden piece):
pin_hand_right
pin_pants
pin_hat
..

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**Printing and assembly tips**

Printing tips
1 - No supports are required. Two pieces contain built-in supports and/or braces, jacket and hat_brim. Optional parts without the built-in support and braces are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports. The built-in supports and braces are designed for a .4mm nozzle and for the size that the model is presented. Use your discretion for which parts to use if you resize the model significantly.

2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative to ensure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part.

*I used brims on:
- legs

*I used rafts on:
- umbrella tip (I printed the tip and the spats_buttons at the same time to allow the tip some cooling time between layers)
- spats_buttons
- hand_right
- hand_left
- collar

3 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a **VERY** good idea to place left/right parts into separate containers to help with the assembly process.

4 - Your colors most likely will vary from mine, especially the green. I look forward to seeing the colors makers will choose.

..
Assembly tips:

1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups.

2 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. I am not affiliated with 3D Gloop but have experimented with different glues for my models and have found that this glue is a great option for my models. Each type of glue has different pros/cons and I found that 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue that I also use allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. 3D Gloop covers the middle ground for me and really works wonders. It leaves enough time to set, so parts can be positioned correctly and it dries fast enough to hold awkward parts without the need for taping. I used the PLA version that comes in a tube. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue.

3 - I glued the hat pieces together and the right hand and arm together. Once set, I glued the hand to the hat. The hand should be positioned with the flat portion of the thumb fully touching the underside of the brim, and the hand positioned (mostly) against the flat part of the brim for maximun gluing surface.

4 - I put the model together and the umbrella separately. Depending on how the right had is positioned (there is a small bit of leeway), the umbrella tip may be a tad too long and may need to be slightly shortened to ensure the model fully sits flat.

5 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.

Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.