Recommended print settings with a .4 mm nozzle
- Layer Hight: .150 ~.160 mm, depending on motors and gearing
- 3 perimeters or shells (1.2 ~ 1.5 mm) minimum - 4 perimeters prefered
- 8 bottom layers (1.2 ~ 1.3 mm) minimum - 12 bottom layers prefered
- 8 top layers (1.2 ~ 1.3 mm) minimum - 12 bottom layers prefered
- Infill 15~20%, depending on infill type
Additional items needed for assembly
- 4 x Countersunk Head Screws M3x8 (or M3x10 if they are available in your area)
- 4 x Socket Cap Screws M2x12 (Optional: Pan Head or Button Head M2x12)
- 1 x Ultra-thin 24-volt 40mm Square Blower Fan
- Optional: 4 x M2 Nuts
- Optional: Thread locking compound.
- 1- Prepare the printer’s wiring for the fan. Polarity is critical.
- 2- Attach the fan shroud assembly to the back of the hot-end cooling block with the 4 Countersunk M3x8 screws. Orient the U-Shroud so it wraps around 3 sides of the nozzle just above the tip. Apply just enough torque to secure the parts snugly together - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! If you are concerned that the M3 screws could come loose during operation, feel free to apply tread locking compound before installing them.
- 3- Seat the Ultra-thin 24-volts 40mm square blower fan around the shroud’s air duck. The fan must be seated all the way down so that the mounting holes align with the retaining holes on the fan. The part is designed for a snug fit with minimal air leakage between the fan and the air duck.
- 4- Secure the fan to the shroud using the 4 M2x12 screws. Note that the M2 holes in the shroud are threaded. Apply just enough torque to fully seat the M2 screws. Only minimal tightness is necessary to make sure that they are not loose. The M2 screws’ function is to prevent the fan from coming out from the air duck. - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
- 6- Optional: Use M2 nuts on the other side of the shroud to secure the screws.
Note: The K280 kit is a 24-volt system. Many other kits are 12-volt system instead. If so, replace the 24-volt fan with a 12-volt unit.