!OBLIGATORY WARNING!

Create and use this at your own risk. This model has been tested on my own Pint however I cannot guarentee this will be rugged enough to sustain your own use case. Printing in materials that do not deform at low temps is recommended. PLA may soften too much under extensive usage or warmer climates. Although I have done my best to make this watertight it is up to you to make sure all gaps are filled.

Still A WIP so any suggestions or fixes are strongly encouraged :)

At the start of the year I became the owner of a Onewheel Pint that was tragically snapped in half. The former owner was fortunately unharmed but the Pint was pretty much dead. This model is a WIP but should work as is. Additional input from those with stock rails to confirm allignment would be greatly appreciated.

A lot of the electronics were for the most part fine with some connectors needing reconnecting and other rebuilding however the rails and controller housing were destroyed and beyond repair with the pads, bumpers etc utterly trashed.

After 11 major revisions and countless hours in Google Sketchup I managed to pull enough references from the destroyed housing to model a new one.

This housing should work with the stock gasket and upper transparent casing. Admiteddly due to the rails for this Pint also being destroyed I was unable to pull correct hole allignment for the tabs that connect the controller to the rails. As previously mentioned this model is a WIP but should work as is. Additional input from those with stock rails to confirm allignment would be greatly appreciated.

This housing is capable of being watertight with enough care and sealing applied to the model. Extra care around the 3 holes on the back will ensure a good seal.

BOM & TOOLS

• Exisitng upper controller housing
• Onewheel Pint controller O-Ring
• 3mm Aluminium sheet (200mm x 100mm)
• 2mm Aluminium sheet (100mm x 100mm)
• 1mm Thermal Pad
• Pack of brass threaded inserts
• 1x M4x12mm Button Head Hex socket bolt
• 2x M4x8mm Button Head Hex socket bolt
• 5x M4x25mm Button Head Hex socket bolt
• Thermal paste (CPU paste will do)
• Super Glue
• Painters Tape
• Spray Putty
• Spray Paint
• 3D Printer
• M20 x 1.5mm Tap
• Adjustable Wrench
• Soldering Iron
• Clamps
• Coping saw or better

Steps to build

1. Print all 4 models.

2. Remove support material from the controller housing, be careful to not remove the heat sink lip around the inside of the hole.

3.Use the M20 tap to correctly prepare the threads in the housing. Some is already done but the current printed threads will not work.

4. Use the templates to cut the heatsinks. Use "Controller Heatsink Template 1" to cut out the 3mm aluminium plate and "Controller Heatsink Template 2" to cut out the 2mm plate.

5. Check to see if the 3mm plate now fits in the controller housing from the top, if not remove material until it does.

6. Check to see if the 2mm plate fits in the small rectangular cutout in "Controller Housing Sink Plate Cover". If not also remove material until it does.

7. Lightly sand down around the surface on the inside of the 3mm plate just to scuff it up enough to allow the glue to adhere. About 5mm from the edge will work fine as shown in the images.

8. Apply glue around the inside of the heatsink cutout on the controller housing so that the lower lip has a continuous line of it.

9. Press the 3mm plate into the hole and use clamps if needed to apply a suitable ammount of pressure. Be sure to not press it through the thin lip.  Leave to Dry.

10. Begin adding the threaded inserts to the inner housing for the motherboard. 3x M3x4x5 threaded inserts can be pressed into the recessed holes with a soldering iron. Uisng a spare M3 bolt to help straighten the inserts after pressing will help with allignment.

11. Take 3 more M3x4x5 threaded inserts and cut off around half of the insert so they are half as tall.

12. Press those into the "Controller Housing Sink Plate Cover" like earlier with the soldering iron.

13. Slot the "Controller Housing Sink Plate Cover" in place atop of the heat sink. You may want to use some double sided tape to hold it in place and put the motherboard atop to see if the holes line up. If so you can apply some glue around the edge to hold it in place otherwise reposition and try again until it lines up. Leave to Dry.

14. Apply some thermal paste into the rectangular hole in the "Controller Housing Sink Plate Cover" then place the 2mm plate in there making sure to press it down to spread the paste and make as much contact as possible.

15. Use some glue to keep the 2mm plate from moving around the edges of it. Leave to dry.

16. Take 5 M4x10x6 threaded inserts and press them in from the underside of the housing into the 2 back holes, 2 right holes (beside power button hole) and 1 on the left side beside the motor connector.

17. Take 3 M4x4x6 threaded inserts and press them in from the underside of the housing  into the 2 front holes and the last remaining hole on the left side in the corner beside the footpad connector.

18. Final insterts needed are 4 M4x6x6 which will go into the 4 mounting tabs either side of the housing.

19. Take some bolts and test those fit well, if not you may need to retap the holes or re-align the inserts with the soldering iron.

20. Insert the power button into the allocated hole. If it doesn't quite fit try opening it up a little with a drill or sanding method. The rubber cover does need to be pushed in a bit more since it's designed to form a seal. Remove the button after checking it fits.

21. At this point if you wish to sand, fill and paint the model now would be the time to do it. I recommend using painters tape to cover the heatsinks and inserts (I used throwaway bolts instead) before sanding, filling and painting. You will need to redo the M20 threaded hole again after since the paint will have shrunk the hole.

22. Remove any painters tape after all paint has dried. Take the 1mm thermal pad and place it over the internal face of the heatsink, I recommend cutting it to size witha  little bit of overhaang to cover the entire plate.

23. Slot the controller board into the housing and screw it in with the stock screws. If not available M3x4 bolts will suffice.

24. Add the button again now the controller is in place along with the stock lightbar with it's mounting bracket. This will be a tight fit since I didn't want it to move.

25. Take the stock battery cable and thread the 2 connectors through the M20 hole. Connect both the smaller white connector and the XT60 connector to the controller then secure the M20 cable gland so that the battery and controller are now one piece. Test it powers on fine at this point and connects.

26. Add the O-Ring to the housing, I recommend starting at the front and working back. There may be a minor bit of excess if the O-Ring has stretched but can be made to seat properly with enough perseverance.

27. Place the upper controller housing onto the lower controller housing, making sure the O-Ring is still seated in place. Secure the hosuing with the 2x M4x8mm bolts on the front 2 holes, 1x M4x12mm bolts in the corner next to the footpad connector and 5x M4x25mm for the last 5 holes. Not necersarilly in that order and would recommend loosely fastening them then tightening them all last but not too much to deform or crack anything.

28. Re-assemble the Pint as usual and take it for a spin. I suggest keeping an eye on the controller temps on the first few rides to be sure the heatsink is doing it's job and not reaching temps that may cause the hosuing to melt...