The prototypes currently printed are not the best quality as far as surface finish goes. The Predator hasn't been dialled in particularly well and is not without a few teething issues, However, the prints are relatively accurate so I'm pretty confident of the dimensional accuracy so far. The first prototype I printed were without supports and whilst they printed successfully, the poor bridging and overhang capability of the Predator meant the backs of the hinges and the captive nut recesses got a bit ugly. Subsequent prints were completed with supports everywhere and came out looking a lot better. I'll probably print a final version in blue PETG to match the rest of the printers upgrades.
You will need the following items to complete this project, listed below: 1. M4 x 6mm Cap Head Screw, Box Mounting screws. (3 off). Note. 8mm will work but will require a couple of washers to ensure no bottoming out 2. M4 "T" Nuts, Box Mounting. (3 off). 3. M4 x 40mm Cap Head Screw, Hinge Pins (2 off). 4. M3 x 30mm Cap Head Screws, Fan mounting. (4 off). 5. M3 x 12mm Cap Head Screw, Control screen mounting. (4 off). 6. M3 x 10mm Cap Head Screw, Buck converter mounting. (2 off). 7. M3 x 8mm Cap head Screw, SKR mounting. (4 off). 8. M3 Nuts. (14 off). 9. M2 x 6mm Cap Head Screw, Raspberry Pi Mounting. (3 off) 10. Raspberry Pi 3B or better (1 off) 11. 12 Volt USB 3 Amp Buck Converter. (1 off). Link https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0755992ZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 12. Small Fan MOSFET (1 off if required). Link https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000675631988.html?spm=a2g0s.9042322.214.171.124c244c4dYo67m9 13. Short USB cable. (1 off). Link. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FQGWBYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 14. 2050 Axial Flow fan (1 off). Link https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06W2N73RX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've had some mixed success with the fan MOSFETS and many won't work if you're using the signal pin output from the X or Y Max endstop plug. The ones that don't seem to work have an opto isolator on the board and there seems to be insufficient signal to turn on the FET. The one listed above is a more simple affair and works fine but make sure you don't cross your wires or you might kill your output pin on the SKR.
1. First thing I'd recommend is to pull all the captive nuts into place in the base of the case. Use an M3 screw and a washer through from the inside and then pull the nut into place, using the screw. Once all captive nuts are fitted, Ensure the tapped threaded holes are clear by screwing the appropriate size screw into them, taking care not to drive the screw beyond the bottom and damaging the case. 2. Fit the SKR board first, followed by the MOSFET and Buck converter as applicable. 3. Fit the control screen to the lid using the screws and nuts listed in the Parts list, followed by the Raspberry Pi. 4. Fit the lid to the box using the M3 x 40mm screws. Tighten sufficiently to ensure the lid closes smoothly without binding. 5. Fit the box to the printer frame using the M4 screws and T nuts. The screw holes in the case for the upright mounting positions are countersunk but if no countersunk screws are available, use cap heads and a washer. The box mounts from the inside of the frame and the vertical fasteners locate in the rear slot of the right hand 2040 upright. 6. Fit the fan and connect either to the MOSFET if being used as a firmware controlled Control board cooler or to a 12Volt source that is live when the control board is powered on. Ensure fan is fitted to exhaust air from the box to outside. 7. Make all necessary electrical connections. I secured the buck converter USB power cable for the Pi using a small P clip fitted to one of the control board securing screws. This takes the sideways strain from the little socket on the Pi when opening up the case.