This I made for my new MP Select Mini V2. Possible just my luck but the new V2 mini seemed to have a longer X-axis arm which made the old clap system not work. It was off by about 4mm so I made this new clap. It worked great. I revised it a bit after using it for a while and added the counter sunk holes inside the bearing mount. I used screws identical to the bed screws on the MP Select Mini but any small taped head should work fine- you will need to use new screw (longer) to secure the bearing clap to the x-axis bar. I left the bar on my Mini since I think the extra support is needed.

Product Links:
M3 Screws: http://amzn.to/2q7PdFK
3M Glass Bed Tape: http://amzn.to/2qMBntD
Vibration Pads: http://amzn.to/2r7oGg9 (come in 2x2 and 4x4 work well)
PLA PRO- http://amzn.to/2q7UvkQ (great material in my opinion)
Bed Wires: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MqNMbGtDY (not my video)
Glass Bed- http://amzn.to/2rs14CN (or goto Lowes and get the to cut you one 2$)
MP WIKI- http://mpselectmini.com/mods

Bed Wire Option:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2302588
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2179761 (move fan use fan holes)

1. Drill new hole like the video
   Silicone WIre: http://amzn.to/2q7zG8Z

Things I learned about the V2- (fair and not so fair)

1. The control button has much better control and works decently now!
2. It still has issues :( the bed is the same, they added some cheap cotton blanket to the bottom that is barley taped in place. So you might to fix that before you ever start printing.
3. The bed I received was warped. High in the middle- I added a glass bed so that actually fixed the issue of the warped aluminum. I used 3M adhesive tape for the glass bed and it worked outstandingly well. Just cut the glass to leave your bed leveling screws access for removal and leveling.
4. The hot end is better- its a cheap E3D clone and performs as such. Not great but should be better in the long run.
5. This machine was louder than the last one. I even printed some Z-Axis stabilizers for the inside tower and it still did not quit rattling.
6. The bed wires are still an issue. My original mini cut the heated bed wires since they rub against the mounting blocks and pulley. I recommend rerouting them as the link shows below.
7. It printed fine for 3 days and then the bed thrmoresistor went out causing the bed to quit heating, this was after it was about 120 degrees Celsius and I thought it might burn it self up! lol
8. The X-axis pulley on the right side used to be metal, however the new one is plastic for some ungodly reason. After a few days printing this pulley and gear fell apart almost and shelled plastic pieces all over the X-axis arm. Terrible design change in my opinion.
9. When it prints the prints are pretty decent for a 220$ machine. With some mods and tweaking I think its still almost worth the 220$ if you want to tinker with it.
10. Cooling fan seems to be much quieter which is great, the cooling shroud however I am not to sure on how well it will cool the parts. Its an odd design in my opinion and leaves little air flow left for part cooling.

Unfortunately I had to RMA this unit, due to all the issues above- I have not had the best of luck with these cheap machines and hopefully the new replacement will fair better.