Update: Received my cheap analog arcade joystick mechanism from AliExpress and I can confirm that The Raptor fits and works well BUT it doesn't have a strong recentering effect so it needs to be mounted flat and not at an angle plus I can't vouch for how long it will last because I only just got it. $24 AUD (Around $17 USD) inc. postage, If you want to try it out.
Link is down in the misc. notes.

...

Now I'm on v3 of my Digital arcade Flightstick series I am starting to think it shouldn't be digital anymore, so I have searched down a not-too-expensive (read: cheap) arcade analog stick and placed an order. I did consider the Ultimarc UltraStik (especially the 360FS) but the cost was high and you could buy an off the shelf analog stick for less.

If anybody has a spare UltraStik or knows of a cheap way to get one to Australia please message me.

Anyway, continuing on from my other flightsticks, "The Raptor" is relatively simple to print and requires only 8 of a single type of push button to be ready for battle!
Obviously, you will need to wire up the buttons, have a Sanwa clone joystick to plant it on and an encoder to interface with your chosen device.

The reason this version has a separate front cover is so you can consolidate the ground wires from the back 5 buttons, thus reducing the amount of wiring running through the body. I also would suggest feeding a wire up to the trigger push button location from the bottom, the turn is a little tight to be able to feed it from the top.

As a connection suggestion, considering that there are 8 fire buttons and a ground wire you could use a coiled spring type cable terminating in a 9pin D plug with a connector situated on the front of your control panel, or just under if it overhangs.

I hope someone gets as much of a kick out of this as I did designing and making it, this is not the end of the flightstick series but I might have a go at a few others things in the meantime.

There are two versions of the main body, one is lighter, takes less material and time to print, and the other is stronger.

_336L means: 3 top layers, 3 bottom layers, 6% infill and L is Line infill.
_4415H means: 4 top layers, 4 bottom layers, 15% infill and H is Hex infill.

THE STL FILES FOR THIS DESIGN ARE AVAILABLE THROUGH MY PATREON & PATREON SHOP.
patreon.com/3DFreeman

You could join up for a month and download the STL files for all my designs or you can now buy bundles from my Patreon shop for $3

Here's a non-affiliate ebay link to the type of cheap and cheerful Sanwa clone I use:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334119951114?hash=item4dcb19db0a:g:Ka0AAOSwaqxhHjfn&frcectupt=true

And the momentary push button switches:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334281711817

Thanks for checking out my designs.

Print Settings

Printer:

Aquila X2 (Ender 3 clone)
Rafts:

No
Supports:

No
Filament brand:

Voxelab
Filament material:

PLA

Misc. notes:

Overly long AliExpress link to SJ@JX Arcade Controller 3D Analog Joystick:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002797741274.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1ed773e3thk9gE&algo_pvid=b07a3e89-f348-4fe8-839b-85bf8320924e&algo_exp_id=b07a3e89-f348-4fe8-839b-85bf8320924e-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000022230317518%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21AUD%21%2113.07%21%21%21%21%21%402101e9d216534598048193438e9a5e%2112000022230317518%21sea