The legs are designed for ball-and socket joints that do not require glueing. (And thus are posable). Note that the fit is quite stiff, despite being the same tolerances as the larger Ghyla-Heelene legs (and you may have to use moderate force, be careful) to get the legs in. Contrary to my regular policy, from hinsight, I recommend you DO NOT paint the ball or the side of the socket more than a basecoat. You may wish to assemble these before painting. (Do paint the carapace posts and holes and the ball-and-socket turret post, since they will need all the friction they can get.) The forelegs can be glued into their sockets if desired; however, do not glue one (or possible both) of the rear legs or you will not be able to add or remove the flight mode legs because of the locking turret torso. (Note that the armour blocks on the legs are on the inside, because they form bottom and sides of the armoured box in flight mode when rotated.)

Placement of the head and tail in their sockets is best done by utilising a cup of hot water (out of the kettle or tea urn and not quite boiling) and dipping the body in for several seconds. This makes it pliable enough to get the head and tail into the sockets.

(Otherwise, you will probably find that the socket has to bent be bent open with needlenose pliers to squeeze those sections in and bending back. )

Note that the fit can be a bit variable for unknown reasons. (In one test instance, it was fine, the other was a little loose.) I recommend you do this BEFORE painting, otherwise, you may have to damage the paintwork. (I do *not* recommend trying to take them in and out.)

(On the FDM and resin prototype, I actually put those parts in before spraying undercoating and base coating.) As with the legs, if once you have the head in if it is loose, add additional paint.