You can fit 4 of these on a 235mm^2 print bed if they are each aranged 90 degrees to the previous one. They are designed to be printed with the top surface face down on the print bed and chamfers should compensate for any potential "elephants foot" on the first layer. Print with PETG so that they can be sanitized with isopropanol. Familiarize yourself with the limitations of 3d printed parts (mostly that the layer lines and ergo gaps can hold on to bacteria) and make sure these are suitable for your application.
Recommended print settings:
Flow Rate: ~0.95 (95%)
Nozzle diameter: 0.6mm (native 0.6mm line width)
Layer Height: 0.4mm (if using a 0.4 nozzle you'll need to decrease this to 0.2-0.3mm layer height)
Perimeter Count: 3 walls (more if using a 0.4 nozzle)
Bottom Solid layers: 2 for 0.4 layer height (3-4 for 0.2-0.3 layers)
Skirt: Yes 1 line on the skirt seperate from the part so that the nozzle is primed when the print starts
Infill: The part should be solid made up of walls and solid bottom layers only, infill should be irrelevant
Bed temp: 75C
Hotened temp: 250C (do not exceed the safe operating temperature of your hotened many ptfe lined stock hotends cannot achieve this temperature withouth offgassing PTFE fumes)
Part Cooling: Disabled, No part cooling is required and part cooling is not advised for this part
Speed: 30mm/s for all features (solid layers, perimeters inner and outer) this will allow you to achieve optimal interlayer adhesion with PETG and meet the 30 minutes per unit time when using a 0.6 nozzle
Single Extrusion Gap fill (thin walls): enabled
Wall Order: Outside in (outer most perimeter first)
Notes: This can be sliced on a 0.4mm nozzle either by increasing the line width to 0.6 (150% of native) or increasing shells however regardless you will not be able to print at 0.4mm layers on a 0.4 mm nozzle. When using a lower layer height you may also be able to get by with lower hotend temperatures.